Good App, hope the support keeps coming 3 out of 3 people found this helpful. I can get connected to my drone however no options are available for me to fly as with any other device. I can't take off, update, or any basic functions. App randomly disconnected like 10 meters in front of me and flew away into a neighborhood and hit a pole, I really would like to fly my AR Drone 2 so please update the app. Thanks One person found this helpful. Please at least finish the app. I know that "director mode" is not that great of feature due to the weak camera situation (compared to the Bebop), but finish and maintain the app, PLEASE!! Needs more robust come link management & control Tried the app a few times yesterday... altitude up to 25 meters and distance out to about 30 yards. Link was not altogether stable, and on one flight, the app locked-up the cmd link restart function... had to regain control from my WinPhone using AR Drone remote. Doesn't seem to reliably turn on the on-board recording, and also seems to want to record the transmitted video onto my Surface-3.

This works about 50% of the time. Acquiring the WiFi address of the drone is also quirky..needs a native English speaker to correct the code bugs I reckon.parrot ar drone wp7 Lastly, the sharing and media mgt capabilities are very basic, compared to the iPAD version. eb games parrot ar droneIntegrate with Microsoft Cloud functions and this is a winner-winner!parrot ar drone sumo Lastly, the control loop, when its working to spec, is nicely responsive with the Intel I5 powered Surface-3....way smother and quicker than with the iPAD.ar drone 1 caracteristicas Looking forward to the next release!ar drone 2 altura maxima

4 out of 4 people found this helpful. Glad to see this on Windows 8! It's exciting that more developers are understanding that Windows 8 is a great platform and a lot of people actually do use it!pocket drone where to buy I love using this with my Surface Pro 3, as the larger screen makes the video flight much more satisfying than on the iPad. And, that I seem to have better WiFi distance with my Surface too! Only thing missing here is the GPS control that's on the iPad app, and video recording. Plus I hope they bring out the AR.FreeFlight 3 soon for my new Mini drones! It works as one would expect. It is truly sad it took so long considering this is not a complicated app. Now will they keep it up-to-date and add features that are already on iPad? Started great, then stopped Using this on my Surface RT, the app started out great flying my a.r.drone. Then all of a sudden the app will no longer recognize when the tablet is connected to the drones WiFi which makes it useless.

2 out of 2 people found this helpful. Review so far with Surface Pro - Works great with touch-screen thumb-sticks and accelerometers. - Works with Xbox controller. Both thumb sticks work properly in their appropriate directions. However, the left thumb stick always applies 100% acceleration, no matter how gently you push the stick. Right thumb stick is analog. Applies % of acceleration depending on how much you push the stick. It appears that a quick update to the left thumb-stick is all that is needed. - D-pad on Xbox controller will flip drone: up=front flip, back=backflip, right=flip to the right, left= flip to the left. No need to change settings to get different flips=cool combos. - Xbox controller (both wireless and wired) must be plugged in AFTER takeoff, otherwise it won't takeoff no matter what. For Wireless controller: have controller on but don't have wireless adapter plugged into USB port yet. Start up the drone. Once drone takes off, quickly plug in wireless adapter.

- Didn't test out the keyboard yet. Will report back later. 15 out of 16 people found this helpful. A good start, flying on my Surface RT. Only takes Still pictures to tablet. Would be nice to save streamed video to tablet. Hopefully a WP8 app soon! 9 out of 11 people found this helpful.Quadricopter ControlledWould Drone 2 0Parrot DroneParrot ArParrot QuadcopterSale ParrotHeart ParrotStock ParrotCamera ParrotForwardParrot AR.Drone 2.0 Quadricopter Controlled by iPod touch, iPhone, iPad, and Android Devices -Orange/Blue by Parrot Inc.. From the Manufacturer The Parrot AR.Drone’s autopilot feature, anyone can be an expert as th... By: Tara Tiger Brown and Sean Bonner This should go without saying, but by hacking these off the shelf devices you are voiding all warranties. This is important because if you kill your drone by cutting it up you have to know ahead of time that you won’t be able to call anyone at the company to help you troubleshoot. Same goes for the Dropcam - it’s intended for indoor use in a controlled environment not to be flown all over the place outside strapped to a drone.

So just know going into this you are on your own. Parrot AR Drone 2.0 Quadcopter @ $299 Dropcam WiFi HD Camera @ $149 (use this option for wifi/live web streaming) or HackHD Camera @ $160 (use this option to record to SD card and view later) Monoprice 50ft 14AWG Enhanced Loud Oxygen-Free Copper Speaker Wire Cable @ $21 4 x Deans Connectors @ $0.95 ea few small zip ties Power Supply (we used a power supply from a PC, which requires two 4 pin Molex Connectors @ $0.95 each, but anything that supplies 12v at around/up to 8A should work.) 5v Power Regulator @ $1.25 or 3.3v Power Regulator if using HackHD instead of Dropcam Heat Sync plus Mounting Parts (Screw, Nut, Locknut) @ $0.95 ea Thermal Tape @ $3.95 Micro USB cable that you are willing to cut up (to power the Dropcam) Soldering Iron/Station - we prefer variable temp but there are lots of options that should work. Lead solder (easier to de-solder if you need to) Knife (xacto or similar)

Hot Glue Gun and Glue All project photos are here Project Video #1 is here Project Video #2 is here Part 1 - Preppin' the Parrot Setup Dropcam Account here. Make sure it can connect properly and you can access it. Decide if you want the feed to be private or public. Install one of the Parrot AR Drone apps on your smartphone of choice. Ensure your drone works and you can fly it around. Say goodbye to all that mobility and fancy handling Part 1 - Parrot (Teardown reference on iFixit) Take off the top hull (the piece with the blue and orange stickers). You won’t need it and getting rid of it gives you more lift. Parrot without the hull and battery Peel off the plastic plate on the bottom of the drone from the back, but not all the way. You’ll see that there’s a rather large cavity in the drone, you’ll be shoving your camera in there. Cut a circle hole in that plastic cover large enough for your camera lens to pop out, but small enough to hold the rest of the camera guts inside.

Note that we didn’t glue the dropcam into the hull, it’s just kind of in there. Parrot with the Dropcam inside the hull and a piece cut out for the cable. Cut about a half inch notch in the side hull, to allow cables to get to your camera. Mod the power connector to use Deans connectors - this way you’ll be able to use the battery or the power tether. Soldering to the Deans connectors can take some time and lots of heat, so be patient and persistent. We used a male (M) connector on the drone, however this is very dangerous. If the male leads come into contact with anything conductive, you can short that battery and cause a fire. Don’t do what Donny Don’t does, and always connect the famle end to any battery or other power source! Also, be sure to not solder on two of the same ends. Nothing worse than finishing up and finding both ends of the wire you are trying to connect are female. Parrot power connector modded with the Dean’s connector Part 2 - Connector for Tethered Power

Connectors, voltage regulator and speaker wire ready to be soldered This is the piece that will connect your Parrot and Cam to the single line of power running up the tether. Remember what we said earlier about the Deans connectors, make sure you keep that in mind here. Make sure you have: Deans connector to connect to power connector on the Parrot (F) Deans connector to connect to the speaker wire/power cable (M) Speaker wire - Cut two lengths - 6” and 4” should be good Mini USB - Cut at about 5” See photos 4a/b for clear explanation, but the flow here will be from the power cord to split (from M Deans connector) with A side (6” wire) going to the Parrot (F Deans Connector), and B side (4” wire) going to the power regulator then mini USB to the cam. Remember to watch polarity when soldering! ProTip: Speaker wire usually has a marker/indicator to show the + line. When soldering the Mini USB, you only need to solder the RED (power) and BLACK (ground) lines, since there’s no data being transferred over that cable thanks to the built in wifi on the Dropcam, or SD card on the HackHD.

Part 3 - Powerline (Tether) With 18 AWG speaker wire we were able to get a tether of 10’ and fly indefinitely. We tested 30’ with 14 AWG and were able to stay in-flight for about 10 minutes. More testing to do! Create a 2nd short connector piece that has a (F) Deans connector on end, and an adapter to connect to whatever power source on the other. For our purposes that meant 2x Molex connectors to snap onto 2 power leads from the PC power source. You can use whatever you want here so long as enough voltage. The value to doing this is that you can keep changing the length of the tether without soldering new cables every time. Speaker wire, Molex and Dean’s connectors Soldered connector with hot glue Measure out length of 14 AWG speaker wire for tether, solder (F) Deans connector to one end (to connect to Parrot) and (M) Deans connector to the other (to connect to power). Computer power source with the new connector Remember to watch polarity when soldering!